Motherboards used to have
3.6V barrel batteries. One good thing about them is that they are
rechargeable. They charge themselves every time computer is powered
on so in theory they should have never need to be replaced.
Unfortunately they are like Duracell batteries, they leak and might
work while leaking.
Leaking can damage
motherboard so remove leaking batteries immediately. I recommend to
remove them before they start to leak. Removing is easy, just cut
them with pliers and there will be no need to desolder anything.
Locate the 4-pin external
battery header from the motherboard. It should be close to the
battery and there should be a jumper to select between internal and
external battery. Pin 1 of the header is +, pin 2 is not connected
(and usually missing completely so there are only 3 visible pins).
Pins 3 and 4 are -. You can use multimeter to locate pins 3 and 4
since they are connected together. This is useful if your motherboard
has all 4 pins available and there are no good markings.
Here are what you need to
build an external battery: CD-Audio cable, battery holder, 3 AA
batteries, soldering iron and some electric tape. It is possible to
do this without soldering iron if you use some connectors or just tie
the wires together.
You are going to need the
type of CD-Audio cable that has one large connector that fits to the
external battery header. That is the most common type of CD-Audio
cable so it will be easy to find. Battery holders are easy to get as
well. You can get those from Chinese ebay sellers and the price is
very cheap even with postage. Just make sure you get holder for three
AA batteries that are connected in series to get 4.5V.
You might wonder if 4.5V
is too high since the barrel battery is 3.6V. I once had a “real”
external battery and once it had depleted I opened it. It had 3.7V
lithium battery in it. That made me try to build my first own
external battery using 3.7V lithium-Ion rechargeable battery. It
worked but it self discharged way too soon to be of any use. Using
non-rechargeable lithium battery would have been far better but those
are expensive.
Modern systems use 3V
lithium batteries that are shaped like a coin. I tried those and 3V
was enough to hold BIOS settings but it was not enough for RTC to
tick properly. I'm told that it will work better on some
motherboards.
Then I read from Vintage
Computer Forum that 4.5V is not too high. Finally I found one
interesting picture from a 386 motherboard. Next to the external
battery header there was printed the voltage range and the range was
3.6 to 4.5V. So I finally decided to try 4.5V. So far I've tried it
on two motherboards and both without problems. I don't know how long
the batteries will last but I'll let you all know when I need to
replace them.
Back to the assembly
instructions. Here I have CD-Audio cable that has large head on the
other end and large + small head on the other. This is good since
this cable can be used for CD-Audio even after building the external
battery. Alternatively I could have build two external batteries
using one CD-Audio cable.
I should have taken first
photo before cutting anything but I didn't think of it until it was
too late. The pictures should be self explaining. Just be careful
when connecting the small CD-Audio head back as the orange wire and
thin black wire are connected together. It might be wise to use
multimeter to see how the wires are connected before cutting
anything. Some CD-Audio cables have different colors and possibly
only 3 wires.
If you don't need to keep
the CD-Audio cable usable it might be wise to use longer cable for
the external battery. This helps to place it in a location where
leaking does not do any harm. Finally remember NOT to use Duracell
batteries since they will certainly leak eventually.
CD-Audio Cable. The short part with black connector will be used for the external battery. |
Wires are now soldered. |
First tape all individual wires, then tape them all together. |
External battery is now completed. The tree AA batteries are connected in series. |
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